Check and clean rear brake2【Installation】

＜Lubrication＞

Spray lubricant all around the cleaned brake piston.

It stuck to the caliper after cleaning it…or rather, I put too much on it.
Next time, it might be better to change the application method, such as applying it to the piston.

＜Lubricant acclimation 1＞

Push the brake piston in with your fingers.

I was able to push the brake piston in with my fingers without using the brake piston tool.

＜Lubricant acclimation 2＞

Push the brake pedal to release the piston.

Repeat STEP 2 and 3 several times.
Wipe off any lubricant that has been spilled.
In the past, I used to apply brake rubber grease and then do the same operation.

The Internet seems to show that there are pros and cons to this process (rubbing out), but in my experience, it is very effective.
I wonder if it smoothes out the piston movement, or if it makes the brakes feel so much better. (especially the front)

I imagine, it may penetrate the dust seal (outer seal) and reduce the sliding resistance of the piston.

Now, let’s get ready for installation.

＜Chamfering brake pads＞

Using an iron file, lightly chamfer the edges of the brake pads.

This is to ensure that the brake pads will hit correctly and immediately after reassembly.

＜Greasing 1＞

Apply a thin layer of silicon grease to the rear slide pin and pad pin.

＜Greasing 2＞

Apply lithium grease to the pin punch and apply it inside the forward slide pin hole.

As I was writing this, I realized that I thought the steel slide pin on the brake caliper bracket and the metal part inside the brake caliper were touching, but in fact, the plastic part on the front seems to be touching.
I will consider whether or not to replace it with silicon grease at the next service.

＜Greasing 3＞

Apply silicone grease to the pin punch and apply it inside the rear slide pin hole.

This one touches the inside diameter of the steel slide pin and rubber boot.

Now, let’s start the installation.

＜Install pads spring＞

Install the pad spring in the orientation shown in the photo.

＜Install brake caliper＞

1. Hang the boot over the groove.
2. Apply lithium grease to the slide pins of the brake caliper bracket.
3. Install the brake caliper.

＜Install brake pads 1＞

Place the outer brake pad on the grooves of the brake caliper bracket.

＜Install brake pads 2＞

1. Put the washer between bracket and boots.
2. Insert the rear slide pin halfway.

*Be careful not to forget to insert washer.

＜Install brake pads 3＞

1. Hook the inner brake pad groove to the guide
2. While supporting it upward with your fingers
3. Push down on the brake caliper with light force (pushing the pad against the pad spring)

＜Install brake pads 4＞

In this state, push in the rear slide pin and insert it into the groove of the brake pad.

＜Install rear slide pin 1＞

Tighten the slide pin at the rear with a hexagon socket (5 mm) fitted with a quick spinner.

Wipe off any grease on the guide portion of the slide pin.

＜Install pad pins 1＞

Tighten the two pad pins with a hexagon socket (5 mm) with a quick spinner.

Then, install the brake caliper bracket to the rear arm and install the wheel.

＜Install rear slide pin 2＞

Tighten the rear slide pin with a torque wrench. (18N-m)

＜Install pad pins 2＞

Tighten the two pad pins using the same torque wrench. (18 N-m)

＜Condition of tightened slide pin＞

The white silicon grease applied to the slide pin is sticking out.

The reason why grease was sticking out before the work was done may be because the amount applied was too much.

This time, I have prepared a new cap.

＜Comparison of old and new caps＞

Left: Old
Right: New

Price, 1,309 yen, not easy to break…
(I don’t intend to break it, but I’m sure I will break it again.)

＜Install cap＞

Push the cap in with your finger.

＜Install pad pin plugs＞

Using a flat-head screwdriver (blade width 6 mm), install the two pad pin plugs.

Then, depress the brake pedal several times to firmly press the brake piston against the brake pad and you are done.
(If you forget to do this, you will get really impatient at the first intersection.)

Now, let us compare before and after cleaning.

＜Before＞

The holes in the cap were noticeable, but overall it was not that dirty.

＜after＞

Not much has changed…

The key “squeaking” sound started again after riding about 300km.
I wonder why?

Continue to Maintenance Record “Rear brake fluid replacement”.