Extract wiring from ignition power supply

First, remove the sheet.

*
The box is removed due to other work, but it is easier to work that way.
If you want to remove up to the box, please refer to the maintenance record “How to remove rear cowls and panel etc.” STEP 1-21.

あわせて読みたい

How to remove rear cowls and panel etc. Following the maintenance record ‘How to remove and install side cowls, panels, etc.’, this section summarizes ‘How to remove and install rear cowls, panel, …

＜Open fuse box lid＞

Press the pawl to open the fuse box lid.

Take the wiring out of the signal fuse (7.5A), which is energized when the ignition switch is turned ON.

＜Remove signal fuse＞

Using the fuse clip, remove the third fuse from the top in the photo.

＜Check direction of electricity flow＞

I checked the direction of electricity flow with a digital multimeter and found that it flows from the rear to the front.
Therefore, I decided to pull out the wiring from the rear of the upstream side.

＜Comparison of old and new fuses＞

Left: Removed, Genuine parts
Right: Installed, Power supply outlet fuse

The power supply outlet fuse has wiring on one side, to which electrical components are connected.

The following considerations were made for the installation.

• Do not drill holes in the fuse box.
• The fuse box lid can be closed.

If more electrical components are added in the future, I will consider changing the method so that it can be restored to its original state.

＜Study of wiring routing 2＞

Idea 1: Pass the wires through the gap in the lid
We are happy to see that there is a small gap where we can pass the wires through.

Idea 2: Through the gap under the spare fuse (20A)
The underside of the spare fuse was open, and there was a gap where the wires could pass through.

Although it is good that we can’t see it from the outside, it is not easy to remove the terminals by crimping them after passing them through the gap. So I decided to go with idea 1.

＜Study of wiring routing 3＞

The wiring through the gap in the lid should be routed through the side of the fuse box and along the underside of the fuse box.

Now let’s install the fuse with wire.

＜Install wired fuse＞

Plug in the wired fuse and bend the wiring 90 degrees.

I feel like I’m straining the wiring as hard as I can…

＜Close fuse box lid＞

I tried to close the fuse box lid, but it wouldn’t close…

It seems that the wiring is too thick to fit in the gap.
I checked and found that the gap between the fuse and the lid is about 2mm, and the outer diameter of the wiring is 2.7mm (0.75sq wire).

I feel that it may be possible to close it by pushing it in, but I wonder if there is any way to do it.

Since the purchased electrical components only take electrical signals, the current flowing through them is considered to be low.
Therefore, the wire does not need to be 0.75sq. So, I decided to replace it with 0.3sq and make the outer diameter of the wiring thinner.

＜Cut wired fuse＞

Cut the wired fuse at 13 mm from the fuse.

It would be a waste not to use the fuse (5A) and the connector terminal on the cut wiring side, even though they are also attached…

＜Remove outer cover of fuse wiring＞

Peel off about 10 mm of the outer cover.

Prepare 0.3 sq. wiring.

＜Prepare wiring＞

1. Cut a 150 mm length.
2. Peel off about 10mm of the outer cover.

＜Connect wiring＞

1. Pass through 25 mm shrink tube (ø2).
2. Pull the wires closer together.

I was soldering the yawning part, but I made a painful mistake here.

＜Soldering Failure＞

When soldering the back side, the wires were not held down and fell the moment the solder melted.

＜Soldering＞

As it was difficult to twist the wires anymore, I soldered them with the wires straightened.

The silicone on the fuse melted out and I had a bit of a scare, but I got it done.
The connection will be weak, but I don’t think it will take much pulling force, so it should be fine.
But the important thing is that the outer diameter has become thicker and larger than expected…

＜Remove outer cover＞

Using nippers, remove about 3 mm of the outer cover left on the fuse side.

＜Heat shrinkage＞

Cover with shrink tube and use a heat gun to shrink.

＜After shrinkage＞

The maximum outside diameter of the wiring is now about 2 mm, a reduction of 0.7 mm from the original 2.7 mm.
It should now fit in the fuse box.

Next, process the other side of the wiring.

＜Terminal and sleeve＞

This time, in order to be able to connect two electrical components, I prepared 2-way bullet terminal.
The sleeve is for flat terminals and are cut short.

However, I realized later that I did not need to cut the sleeve.
I thought that the long sleeve would be a nuisance when connecting the terminals, but it was only necessary to move the sleeve…

＜Crimp terminal 1＞

Since 0.3sq is not enough wire width for the part to be crimped, the wiring is folded back.

＜Crimp terminal 2＞

1. Thread the sleeve
2. Crimp with electric pliers

＜Install sleeve＞

Pass the sleeve through the terminal.

＜Branch wiring＞

The finished product looks like this.

I cut the sleeve too short, and when I move the terminal, it sticks out of the sleeve by about 0.5mm.
I didn’t expect the sleeve to move so much…
I knew I shouldn’t have cut it.

Now, install it in the fuse box.

＜Install branch wiring＞

Insert the branch wiring fuse into the fuse box.

＜Wiring layout＞

The wires, now thinner and easier to bend, are placed along the edge of the fuse box.

The fuse box lid is now safely closed.

＜Fix wiring 1＞

Then, the wiring is;

1. Fixed with cable clamp attached to the side of the fuse box.
2. Fix the wires with insulating tape along the wiring under the fuse box.

＜Fix wiring 2＞

Finally, use a reusable cable tie to secure the 2-way bullet terminal.

This will be useful for connecting and disconnecting the connectors.

＜Connected branch wiring＞

It was a bit of a feather in the cap, but I managed to get it installed.
Now, I can install the electrical components I purchased anytime I want.

＜Fuse box lock＞

However, I later noticed that the lock on the back of the fuse box was not engaged.
I knew there was a strain on the lid…