Motorcycle Dash Cam Installation Part 6 – Installing the Rear Camera

＜Parts to be Installed＞

The following parts will be used.
From left to right:

• Rear camera
• Rear camera bracket
• Well nut and bolt to secure the rear camera bracket

For bracket fabrication, refer to the maintenance records: Motorcycle Dash Cam Installation Part 3 – Crafting the Camera Brackets.

あわせて読みたい

Motorcycle Dash Cam Installation Part 3 – Crafting the Camera Brackets In this third installment, I’ll be fabricating brackets for the dashcam cameras. To mount them at the locations decided in the maintenance record “Motorcycle…

To bundle the wiring together, the tail tidy is temporarily removed.

＜Tail Tidy Removal 1＞

1. Remove the burglar alarm along with its bracket (aftermarket part)
2. Lift the engine control unit
3. Disconnect three connectors
   (Some photos may be unclear—thanks for your understanding.)

Then, remove the three bolts securing the tail tidy. The entire unit, including wiring, will drop down.

To bundle the rear camera cable with other wires (license plate light, left/right turn signals), remove related wiring components.

(For details, refer to the maintenance record: How to remove and install rear turn signals.)

あわせて読みたい

How to remove and install rear turn signals Following the instructions for removing and installing the front turn signals, I will now summarize how to remove and install the rear turn signals. The turn…

＜Tail Tidy＞

All necessary components have now been removed.

Let’s begin installing the rear camera.

＜Rear Camera Bracket Preparation＞

Attach an M6 well nut to the rear camera bracket.

The bracket has a φ13 hole to accommodate the well nut.
The well nut was chosen to help dampen vibrations from the R125.

Mount the rear camera bracket inside the tail tidy.

＜Rear Camera Bracket Installation＞

Use a No.3 Phillips screwdriver to tighten the screw and compress the well nut.

＜Installed Rear Camera Bracket＞

Here’s how it looks when secured.

Normally, it’s more efficient to work with the license plate still attached, but it was removed for photography.

That said, the bracket paint peels off far too easily.
Despite applying three coats, it’s likely a bonding issue with the aluminum rather than paint thickness.
During STEP 10, the peeling became noticeable, so the paint was stripped and reapplied using heat-resistant paint.
(This part is omitted.)

Before installing the rear camera, remove the coiled memory from the wiring.
The cable was already wavy when purchased—not due to long-term storage.

＜Cable Heating＞

Wrap the cable around a PVC pipe fitting and evenly heat it with a heat gun.

＜Before and After Heating Comparison＞

Left: Before heating
Right: After heating

It seems slightly improved.
So, the same method was used for the other camera and switch wiring.

＜Camera Mount Removal＞

Use a 2.5mm hex wrench to remove the screws securing the camera and its mount.

Since a base was added to the bracket, only the camera, camera ring, and M4 screw are used.

＜Rear Camera Installation＞

Secure the camera to the bracket base.

As for the camera’s rotation, align the triangle mark upward at this stage.
Vertical orientation will be adjusted after mounting to the bike.

The rear camera wiring will be fastened together with the right rear turn signal wiring.
The existing clip is too small, so it will be replaced with a larger one.

＜Removing Wiring Clip＞

Since the clip is attached with double-sided tape, use a handy remover to push and peel it off.

Then clean the area with a microfiber cloth.

＜Wiring Clip Comparison＞

Left: Removed part (Amon #1193, photo shows new ones)
Right: Replacement part (Amon #3421)

The size difference is significant.

Check the routing of the rear camera and right rear turn signal wiring, then decide on the mounting position.

＜Wiring Clip Installation＞

Peel off the backing of the double-sided tape and attach the clip to the tail tidy.

＜Wiring Fixation 1＞

Clamp the rear camera and right rear turn signal wiring into the clip to secure them.

If the rear camera cable is bent too sharply:

• It may strain the cable
• It may come loose from the clip
• The cable surface may be abraded by the clip

So, some slack was left.

White tape was added to mark the clip position for future maintenance.

Even though a larger clip was chosen, it still feels undersized.

＜Corrugated Tube Installation＞

Use a wire insertion tool to pass the wiring through a 120mm corrugated tube.

The tube is reused.
Thanks to the thin turn signal wiring, it just fits inside the φ7 tube.

＜Wrapping with Insulation Tape＞

Wrap insulation tape over the entire corrugated tube, overlapping halfway from the cable base.

＜Wiring Fixation 2＞

1. Pass the cable and corrugated tube through the grommet
2. Temporarily fasten two cable ties to secure the tube

Since the bolt position overlaps with the tube, final tightening will be done after mounting to the bike.
Then, connect three terminals with connectors.

＜Front View＞

The rear camera seems to be mounted naturally.
Weight increase: 117g

＜Rear View＞

The rear camera cable is quite long.
Since the tail tidy shortens the wiring compared to stock, the excess cable stands out.

Mount the tail tidy to the bike and connect the three wires (excluding the rear camera).

＜Cable Bundling 1＞

While considering the connection between the rear camera and main unit wiring, bundle the excess cable above the mud flap.

Tested three routing options centered around:

• Fuse box
• Engine control unit wiring
  (Locations: red, blue, yellow)

＜Cable Bundling 2＞

Result: Bundling around the red (fuse box) gave the best fit for the connector and cable layout.

＜Connecting Intermediate Connector＞

Connect the intermediate connector for the rear camera cable.
Same method as the power cable.

＜Cable Bundling 3＞

1. Secure the bundled cable with three cable ties
2. Restore the fuse box

Wrapping a cable tie around the connector recess helps prevent loosening.

＜Bundled Cable＞

Here’s how the cable looks when bundled.

The cable routing feels natural from both the main unit and rear camera sides.
However, the cable rattles slightly.
If it causes noise while riding, the fixation method will be reconsidered.

＜Installed Rear Camera＞

The tail tidy is temporarily mounted, but here’s the result.

Continued in the maintenance record “Motorcycle Dash Cam Installation Part 7 – Installing the Front Camera”.