Mount paddock stand bobbins

First, machine the threaded holes in the swingarm.
The screw size for the bobbins used by Yamaha is M6 with a pitch of 1.0.

For details, please refer to the maintenance record “Threading for paddock stand bobbins”.

あわせて読みたい

Threading for paddock stand bobbins 1. To attach rear paddock stand bobbins To rear paddock stand bobbins (hereafter described as the bobbins) to the YZF-R125 (5D7W), a threaded hole must be ma…

＜Threaded hole＞

＜Around threaded hole on swingarm＞

I think there is a scratch on the top left…
Did the guide bar that was applied when machining the threaded hole rub against it?

Was the guide bar not sufficiently cured?

I was suddenly demotivated, but I got myself back on track and mounted the bobbins.

＜Prepared bobbins＞

I was prepared J-Trip’s Durakon bobbins.

For the appearance after installation,

• I painted the washers black… to unify the color black.
• I bought caps to put on the end of the bolt… to prevent tampering.

＜Mount bobbins 1＞

Insert the bolt through the sleeve/washer and into the bobbin.

＜Thread-locking agent application＞

The YZF-R125 has a small engine and uses a lot of high revolutions, so it vibrates a lot.
Therefore, thread-locking agent is applied to prevent loosening.

＜Mount bobbins 2＞

Tighten the bobbin to the swingarm using a quick spinner with a hexagon socket (5 mm).

＜Mount bobbins 3＞

Then tighten the bolts with a torque wrench to 7 Nm.

The tightening torque was described in the instructions for the J-Trip V-fixture.
For 6 mm bolts: 5-8 Nm.

*
I forgot to take a photo when I was working on it, so I took this photo after the wheel was assembled.
(Please forgive the out of focus).

＜Mount cap＞

Finally, put the cap on.

Then, the rear wheels can be fitted to complete the process.

＜Condition with bobbin mounted＞

It looks like this.

I think the color of the cast skin of the swingarm matches the gloss of the Durakon.
But I guess it’s not gorgeous…

Now for a before-and-after comparison.

＜Before bobbin mounted＞

Setting the stand at the rear end caused inconvenience in removing the axle shaft.

＜After bobbin mounted＞

Yeah, just what I was aiming for.

Now I can set the rear paddock stand reliably on the V-fixture 2 and work better around the rear axle.

＜Condition with stand in L-fixture＞

It has never come off, but I have resisted setting it on the edge.

＜Condition with stand in V-fixture2＞

There are fewer missed lifting-ups and, most importantly, the left-right tilt has almost completely disappeared.

And although I have written positive comments on V-fixture 2 so far, it was not so easy.
I’ll have all sorts of problems when I actually try it…

(For more details, please see the next maintenance record “Replace rear paddock stand fixture”.)

あわせて読みたい

Replace rear paddock stand fixture 1. I’ve put a stand hook on it. A J-trip paddock stand bobbins have been fitted to the YZF-R125 (5D7W) and the rear paddock stand fixtures will be replaced a…